Surfing Is...

It's impossible to classify surfing under a single identity, as it's a different experience for all of it's participants.

Below are a few examples of how I relate to surfing, which have also doubled as inspiration for my latest project, "Surf Therapy."




From the looks of their new movie trailer, Woodshed Films (Thicker than Water, The September Sessions, Shelter, Etc...) has once again taken surfing and the spirit of outdoor adventure to a meaning new level. Their most recent film, 180 South is scheduled for a 2009 release. Can't wait!




I firmly believe that the best surfer in the lineup, is he/she who is having the most fun. This video embodies that good-natured spirit.

West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief. A miraculous true-story about recovering from Lymes Disease by surfing one's self back to health. A must read for any surf enthusiast. Written by Steven Kotler.